“The concept of an enoteca,” says Babak Bina, who owns the Beacon Hill wine bar Bin 26 Enoteca with his sister, Azita Bina-Seibel, “we didn’t invent.” But Bina says the siblings’ enoteca is unique to Boston, where few other restaurants focus on such a wide range of wines from small producers. Some of the lighter reds, like nebbiolo and Beaujolais cru, pair well with one intriguing menu item—the cocoa tagliatelle ($15), says chef Bina-Seibel. The handmade tagliatelle is paired with porcini, mushrooms; cocoa gives the pasta a musty, earthy flavor that complements the dense, silky fungi. The herb nepitelo, also known as calamint, brings a muted brightness to the dish. Bina-Seibel says she tries to limit most menu items to four ingredients, and in this case, tagliatelle, garlic, porcini, and nepitella comprise a simple pasta dish memorable for its firm, satisfying grip on the senses.